RESCUE FROM THE DEATH ZONE! … The Canadian who sacrifices his summit bid to save another climber.
Very laid-back, sincere, gracious, modest and confident.
Andrew Brash is tired of the word “hero”. “If you could not use that word in my introductions that would be great”, he says to meeting planners who are booking him for their clients. This modest Calgary climber is still embarrassed by all the praise heaped on him in the two years since he gave up his boyhood dream of summiting Mount Everest to help rescue a dying Australian climber. In 2006, Andrew took part in an expedition to the North Ridge of Mt. Everest and was involved in the rescue of Lincoln Hall, who had been pronounced dead high on the mountain. The rescue came ten days after the David Sharp incident and the contrast of the two events captured headlines around the world. The story led the national news in Australia and Canada, and was featured on virtually every network worldwide.
That fateful decision, made on a clear day with Everest’s 8,850-metre summit beckoning to him just 200 metres above, led to a few months of depression and some serious soul-searching. Brash, 40, and an English teacher with a young family, worried that he couldn’t afford another attempt on Everest, a costly venture in the neighbourhood of tens of thousands of dollars. He also had his wife Jennifer, a flight attendant with Air Canada, and daughters Anna, three, and Jaime, four months, to consider.
But Brash was keen to attain the summit his conscience denied him. So with the help of several sponsors and the support of his family, he headed back to the roof of the world. Days before leaving, he wasn’t sure whether the Chinese and Nepalese governments would allow he and his expedition team mates (ten climbing members and 15 support staff – including Sherpas to carry loads of approximately 10,000 pounds – and act as climbing partners and kitchen staff) to climb Everest this spring. In February 2008 China decided to ban all but its Olympic torch expedition from Everest’s north side from May 1 – 10. Nepal’s government agreed to ban climbers from the mountain’s south side to avert any potential confrontation over the conflict in Tibet.
Andrew has explored and climbed in the Canadian Rockies for a number of years, also taking time to spend a year in France. In 1993 he took part in his first Himalayan expedition to Cholatse, a difficult and seldom climbed mountain in the Everest region. Successfully reaching Cholatse's summit opened a whole new world of climbing possibilities. A succession of expeditions followed – to Pakistan, Nepal, western China, Tibet, South America, Alaska, Norway and Kazakhstan, resulting in several successful summits and new routes.
He transported us to awe-inspiring corners of the globe. No one will soon forget the images, sounds and story that Andrew Brash shared as the closing speaker for the 2006 Dreambuilders Education Conference. His presentation held the audience spellbound, as he transported us to awe-inspiring corners of the globe that few would ever see, and unfolded an amazing story of determination and personal integrity. The sincere, captivating and inspiring presentation was the perfect closing to the conference, which this year had the theme, Imagine the Possibilities.
Dianne Harvey Vice President, Communications & Marketing Bethany Care Society
A great show I’d recommend Andrew for anything from a sidewalk corner to Carnegie Hall. His show was great – good images, clear message, narrative arc, and connected well to a diverse audience. You can’t ask for much more.
David Dornian UIAA Climbing North American Council President
Your presentation really resonated with our group not only in reinforcing what it takes to succeed, but in the importance of remaining true to your principles to achieve the ultimate success. While we can't fully appreciate what you went through, your powerful story aided by the realism of your slides and video gave us some strong insights, which will have a lasting impact. It was a privilege to have met you.
Murray Carswell, Vice President, Resource Centres Western Region, Great West Life